Winter changes everything about driving a front-wheel-drive (FWD) car. Grip levels fall, visibility drops, and the way your car behaves in a turn or on a slope can surprise you — often at the worst possible moment. Over the years I've lived through black ice moments, controlled slides in empty lots, and countless trips where good preparation made the difference between a calm arrival and a costly repair. Below I share practical, hands-on techniques I use and recommend to keep FWD cars out of skids and off tow trucks this winter.

Understand how FWD cars behave in winter

Before diving into techniques, it helps to know what a FWD layout does for you and what it doesn’t. With the engine and driven wheels at the front, FWD cars typically benefit from better traction under acceleration in slippery conditions because the weight over the front axle helps the front tires bite. But that same bias can create strong understeer — the tendency for the car to go straight when you want to turn — when cornering on low-grip surfaces. Rear-end slides (oversteer) are less common, but when they happen they can be sudden, especially if the rear axle is lightly loaded.

Start with tires — the most important upgrade

I can’t stress this enough: winter tires transform a FWD car. They’re the single best investment for safety and reducing repair risk.

  • Choose true winter tires (not all-season): Brands like Michelin X-Ice, Nokian Hakkapeliitta, Bridgestone Blizzak, and Pirelli Winter offer compounds and tread designs optimized for snow, slush, and ice.
  • Size and fit: Use the manufacturer’s recommendation for wheel diameter; often you can fit a narrower tire which cuts through snow better. I carry a small tire inflator and a gauge to check pressures regularly because cold weather changes pressure quickly.
  • Studded vs. non-studded: Consider studs only if you routinely face ice-packed roads. Many regions ban studs; check local laws.
    • Recommended winter tire pressuresNotes
    Front tiresFollow placard, but check weekly — cold drops pressure ~0.2–0.3 bar / 3–5 psi per 10°C
    Rear tiresSame as front; don’t overinflate to compensate for light rear weight — this reduces grip

    Driving techniques to prevent understeer and skids

    These are the go-to methods I practice. I recommend rehearsing them in a safe, empty area if you can: a large parking lot or a closed course on a cold day.

  • Smooth inputs: Accelerate, brake, and steer gently. Sudden wheel or pedal movements overwhelm grip and cause understeer. Think of your inputs as long, deliberate strokes rather than quick taps.
  • Slow before the curve: Brake in a straight line before entering a turn. If you enter a corner too fast in slippery conditions, the front tires will run out of lateral grip and push wide.
  • Feather the throttle through the turn: In a FWD car you can use the throttle to help rotate the vehicle. A light, steady application of power can pull the nose through the corner. Avoid stamping the accelerator; that creates wheelspin.
  • Don’t overcorrect: If the car begins to understeer, gently reduce speed by easing off the throttle and lightly applying the brakes (if needed) without jerking the wheel. Abrupt corrections often make things worse.

    • What to do if you start to skid

    Skids occur despite precautions. The response depends on the type of skid.

  • Understeer (front washes out): Lift off the accelerator smoothly and straighten the steering slightly to allow the front tires to regain grip. If necessary, gently apply the brakes in a straight line before re-steering into the corner.
  • Oversteer (rear steps out): Counter-steer — turn the wheel into the direction of the slide — and gently lift off the throttle. In most FWD cars the rear will settle once you reduce power. Avoid braking hard; ABS may help, but sudden stops can destabilize the car.
  • ABS or no ABS: Most modern cars have ABS and electronic stability control (ESC). If ABS engages, maintain steady pressure on the brake pedal — pump it only on very old cars without ABS. Let ESC do its job; it’s designed to help you in these situations.

    • Using electronics: traction control and stability systems

    I usually keep traction control (TCS) and ESC on for winter driving. They intervene early to prevent wheelspin and excessive yaw. In some deep snow or when trying to rock a car out of a ditch, switching TCS off briefly can help, but don’t leave it disabled on wet or icy roads. Learn how your car’s systems behave — some cars have sport modes that delay intervention, which is not ideal for winter.

    Techniques for hills, intersections, and parking

  • Hill starts: If possible, avoid stopping on steep, icy hills. If you must, start in a low gear, apply steady throttle, and release the clutch slowly (manual) or hold the brake and apply gentle accelerator (automatic) to prevent wheelspin.
  • Intersections: Approach slowly and assume others may slide. Leave extra space and use engine braking to control speed where possible instead of abrupt braking.
  • Parking on slopes: Point your wheels toward the curb if facing downhill and away if uphill; engage parking brake. On ice, consider leaving the car in gear (manual) or in "Park" plus the handbrake for automatics.

    • Load and weight distribution

    Adding moderate weight in the cargo area behind the rear axle can improve rear grip in a FWD car (especially wagons or hatchbacks). I typically carry a small bag of sand or a 20–30 kg (44–66 lb) trunk bag during long winter trips. Don’t overload — too much weight worsens braking and steering.

    Maintenance checklist before winter

    Prevention saves time and money. I run through this checklist every autumn and again mid-winter.

  • Tires: Inspect tread depth and rotate. Replace if worn below 4 mm for winter use.
  • Battery: Cold reduces capacity. Test and replace if weak.
  • Brakes: Check pads, rotors, and brake fluid level. Winter exaggerates any weakness.
  • Wipers and washer fluid: Use freeze-resistant fluid and replace worn blades.
  • Lights: Clean and verify all lights — visibility matters more in winter.

    • Emergency gear to keep in your FWD car

    Being prepared reduces panic, repairs, and roadside time.

  • A good-quality shovel and a bag of cat litter or traction mats to get out of snow.
  • Warm blanket, gloves, hat, and a flashlight with fresh batteries.
  • Small tool kit, tow strap, and jumper cables or a portable jump starter.
  • De-icer and ice scraper.

    • Practice and mindset

    Finally, the best tool is calm judgment. I rehearse slow-speed maneuvers in safe conditions and develop a feel for the limits of my tires. In traffic or on unfamiliar roads I deliberately lower my speed and increase following distance. When everyone else is rushing, I remind myself that arriving safely — without the costly repairs or insurance claims that follow a skid or collision — is the point.

    Winter driving in a front-wheel-drive car is manageable with the right tires, smooth technique, and a few practical upgrades. A little preparation and practice go a long way toward avoiding the kind of incidents that lead to bent wheels, damaged suspension, or worse. Drive cautiously, keep your car winter-ready, and you’ll reduce the odds of a skid turning into a costly repair.