I remember the first time I nearly bought a used SUV that looked flawless in photos and on the lot — until I drove it and everything felt slightly off. The steering tugged, the car pulled to one side, and the doors closed like they belonged to different cars. After a little digging I discovered previous front-end damage that had been “repaired” poorly. That experience taught me to treat every test drive like a short inspection appointment. Here’s my practical guide on how to spot frame damage on a used SUV during a test drive and the clear signs that should make you walk away.

Why frame damage matters

Frame or structural damage isn’t just cosmetic. The frame and unibody structure are a vehicle’s backbone — they control crash performance, suspension geometry, wheel alignment, and how loads transfer through the car. Even well-intentioned repairs can leave a vehicle unsafe or with poor handling and uneven tire wear. I always treat potential frame problems as a major red flag because they can be expensive and unpredictable to repair.

Quick prep before you meet the seller

Bring a few simple items in your trunk and your phone for photos:

  • Flashlight — a bright, narrow-beam one for gap and seam inspection.
  • Small magnet — useful to detect bondo or body filler over panels (a magnet won’t stick to filler).
  • Smartphone — photos and video of gaps, welds, and undercarriage are invaluable later.
  • Tire tread gauge or just check wear patterns visually.

    • If you can, get the VIN up front and run a vehicle history report (Carfax, AutoCheck). Salvage, rebuilt-title or flood history are non-starters for me on most family SUVs.

    Walk-around: visual cues you should not ignore

    Start with a slow, systematic exterior inspection:

  • Panel gaps and alignment — look along the lines where doors meet fenders and where the hood meets the front fenders. Uneven gaps (one side wider than the other) or doors that sit higher or lower than their neighbors often point to structural issues or poor repairs.
  • Hood and trunk fit — a hood that closes crooked, or a trunk lid that doesn't line up squarely, can mean the front or rear structure was altered.
  • Paint differences — subtle color mismatches, orange peel, or overspray in rubber trim indicate repainting. That could be cosmetic, but paired with other issues it suggests previous damage.
  • New bolts, mismatched hardware, or fresh welds — check inside the wheel wells and under the hood. Factory welds and bolts have a uniform look; inconsistent spot welds and new hardware can indicate repairs.
  • Magnet test — run a small magnet along suspicious panels. If it skips or doesn’t cling, there may be filler under the paint covering a repaired area.

    • Inspect the undercarriage

    Get low and look for signs under the SUV:

  • Major dents or kinks in frame rails, crossmembers, or unibody rails are immediate red flags.
  • Signs of recent welding, especially if it looks sloppily done or only in isolated spots.
  • Twisted or bent suspension mounting points, or repairs around those areas.
  • Rust is normal on older cars, but if structural components have fresh paint over them or the rust has been ground out unevenly, ask why.

    • Doors, latches and glass

    Close each door, the hood and the hatch. Doors on a sound SUV should latch with similar resistance and sit flush with the body lines. Listen for scraping, rubbing, or clicking that suggests misaligned panels. Window seals that don’t fit evenly are another indication of body distortion.

    How the SUV should feel on a test drive — and what’s bad

    During the drive I focus on these cues. I recommend testing on a variety of surfaces: a straight stretch, a slow-speed parking-lot lap, and a patch of uneven pavement.

  • Steering pull — slight drift can be alignment, but a persistent pull that can't be corrected by wheel alignment often points to bent suspension or subframe issues. If the car pulls heavily to one side even when the wheel’s centered, walk away.
  • Vibrations and shimmy — check at different speeds. Steering-wheel shudder at highway speeds can be tires, but if tires are in good shape and balanced, look for bent hubs or geometry problems.
  • Uneven braking — a car that veers during braking suggests misaligned suspension or damaged control arms.
  • Strange noises — clunks over bumps, rubbing, or groaning that change with steering angle are often tied to suspension or frame issues.
  • Steering feel — vagueness or excessive free play after a collision repair can indicate compromised steering components or incorrect geometry.

    • Tests to do on-site

    These quick tests expose subtle structural problems:

  • Grip the steering wheel at 10 and 2 — drive straight over a slight bump. If the wheel kicks or jolts asymmetrically, suspect subframe or suspension damage.
  • Park on level ground and measure gaps visually — if one corner sits lower than others, check springs and mounts; sagging can be a sign of frame misalignment or damaged mounting points.
  • Listen for wind noise — warped pillars or door frames can create abnormal wind noise at modest speeds.

    • Table: Signs vs Likely Severity

    Sign Possible issue Severity
    Uneven door gaps Minor panel repair to major frame misalignment Medium–High
    Bent frame rail or kink Heavy structural damage High — walk away unless fully documented repair
    Pulling under braking Suspension/suspension mounts or alignment Medium
    New welds at odd places Structural repairs, maybe substandard Medium–High
    Salvage/rebuilt title Previously severe damage High — consider skipping

    Red flags that should make you walk away

    Some things are worth an immediate “no” from me:

  • Salvage or rebuilt title without full, verifiable repair documentation. Titles that disclose previous salvage indicate significant past damage.
  • Obvious bent or twisted frame rails — visible deformation of the main rails or unibody structure.
  • Airbag deployment history that isn’t documented with professional repair records. Deployed airbags often mean structural repairs were needed.
  • Unequal door/hood/trunk gaps combined with steering or ride problems.
  • Suspension mounting points with poor welds or added reinforcement — aftermarket or rushed fixes are risky.
  • Seller evasiveness about accident history.

    • When to call in a pro

    If you like the SUV but suspect structural work, I recommend a pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic who specializes in frames or a body-shop that uses a frame machine. A chassis measurement report or frame-straightening shop inspection can tell you if rails were straightened and to what spec. Expect to pay a couple of hundred dollars for a thorough inspection — money well spent compared to buying a compromised SUV.

    I’ve seen vehicles that looked perfect after a hasty repair, only to show accelerated tire wear, unpredictable handling, and hidden costs months later. Treat the test drive as your last line of defense: observe, listen, photograph, and don’t hesitate to walk away when multiple warning signs add up. Your family’s safety and your peace of mind aren’t worth taking chances with a structurally dubious SUV.